My Boulder colleague, let us call her Mrs. Ottosen, was staying at the same hotel as I during our workshop in Copenhagen. Roda is a diminutive Filipino woman who took her husband’s Norwegian name as her own upon their marriage. Despite being a college educated professional, well integrated into American society, Roda’s cultural heritage has shaped her demeanor — she bows slightly as she says “I would defer to your greater knowledge…if you had any.” Then like a meerkat toying with a King Cobra, she shreds you before consuming you whole. “Oh, I am so sorry,” she bows again, “ I did not mean to suggest that you were an ignorant slut…English is not my native language…you are not ignorant at all.”
The airline lost Roda’s bag and so we had to go emergency shopping as soon as we arrived. The hotel’s concierge told us that no stores were open on Sundays but I refused to believe him. So we walked down to the Stroget, Copenhagen’s long pedestrian shopping district. A few stores were open — most featuring hooker outfits — little girl sailor suits with mini skirts and matching stiletto heels. We finally found a store with merchandise worth fondling. The store owner hovered around us. The longer we lingered over an item the cheaper it became. “Oh that is now on sale for 150 kroner.” “Oh, if you buy two things they are 125 kroner.” Roda is a good shopper and ended up having the store owner pay her to take three items.
I don’t think the Danes wear underwear. We had a hard time finding anything that was not a thong and for a piece of string with a sequin tacked on they were asking the equivalent of $20. Roda does wear underwear so she broke down and got a butterfly pair and a pair with intertwining champagne glasses. The next morning we met in the lobby at 6:30 AM and I found her squirming uncomfortably, her realizing too late that European and American sizes were not the same. Her size 6 thong was a bit binding.
We were soon diverted from the thong crisis by a bit of drama in the lobby. A hotel guest came in trailed by two transvestite prostitutes — the three of them bee-lining toward the elevator. The hotel desk man confronted them. The john bolted into the elevator not to be seen again, his party ruined. The ladies began an irate fussing about how they had been invited by the gentleman. Roda watched in fascination and finally said “Those girls are so unattractive. That guy looked like he could find a better date than that.” I broke it to her that those ladies were men. “NO! Men? What do you mean men?” I patiently explained that the dark-haired lady who looked like 3 miles of hard road was in fact a boy, and his blond companion was a boy as well and that this behavior was not unique to Denmark. Roda shook her head over this excitement all day long. She pretended she knew all along that they were men, it was just that her glasses were dirty and she could not be sure.
Over the course of the week I witnessed my friend as she tried out drinking red wine, beer, and finally Baileys. The red wine accompanied our meal at an Italian restaurant and it made her very tipsy. When Roda is tipsy she is quite charming — giggling and sitting with the buzzed grin. She tried to explain how she used to think that to get buzzed meant that you would hear buzzing noises. Govert and Rick took the opportunity to convince her that in Denmark it was considered very rude behavior to leave any food on your plate — and guilted her into consuming enough food for three people. She smiled happily as she complained that the pork was dry. Govert smothered it with gravy and made her eat. Somehow Roda failed to notice that the rest of us left at least half our meal.
Beer appeared to be even more intoxicating. As we walked back to the car after several beers with dinner Roda held onto my arm solicitously as if to help me walk. It was I in fact, who had to steer her and keep her from veering into the bike path. She grinned happily while misnegotiating the curb and laughed in delight as she almost fell. But it was not until Roda was introduced (I am afraid by me) to Bailey’s that she achieved alcoholic drink nirvana.
When in Denmark one does not order a pina colada nor a margherita. Such requests are met with a questioning stare. Roda looked at me plaintively — “I want a froo-froo drink.” “No,” I replied, “what you want is a Bailey’s.” Of course I was right in that matter. Mrs. Ottosen was like a kitten with milk. “Ooooh, this is good.” She called home that night to report that at last she had found the perfect drink. I had never received a text message from Roda’s husband before. .
We had been dining at the hotel restaurant and signed our checks to our hotel rooms. As we walked into the lobby the waiter came running out and accosted Roda. “Your room is assigned to a Mrs. Ottosen!” he said accusingly. Roda pivoted her lovely Filipino head exactly the way Linda Blair did in the Exorcist. “Yes,” she said, “that is my married name.” The waiter, now aware of his racist question, reddened and slunk back into the restaurant. I was appalled, but Roda shook it off. “It happens all the time. I am only angry because I had given him a decent tip.” I said, “Yeah, I wondered why you gave him twenty bucks.” “Twenty dollars? I did not give him twenty dollars — I gave him 100 kroner.” She looked at me…you mean I gave the cab driver a forty dollar tip?” I wrote down the URL for a nice currency converter site. “Are you travelling back home alone, Roda, or will you have a guardian, er, a companion with you?” When she told me she was on the same flight as Govert and Rick I begged her to change her plans but to no avail.